Fretting The Neck. Fretting a neck is not that hard if you follow a few simple rules. Work cleanly and accurately. If you are building new, fret the fingerboard before it is placed on the neck.

Drop some water into each slot and set the frets. Either precut the frets or cut each fret as you go. When all the frets are in, nip and predress the ends, i.e. cut the ends as close to the board as you can, then file them flush. At this point the frets should be at about a thirty-degree angle.

Let the board dry and then sand the edges to clean up. Allow the accumulated dust to remain in the open slots and drop some super glue in. This will give it a nice finished look when you are done. I use the typical fret files but also use a pillar file to dress the edges. It is a little heavier than most files but it gives better control when rounding the ends.

This is a techique that is mastered through practice and makes a big difference in the outcome (I don't like having my fingers ground and chewed while playing.)

I take a magic marker and masking tape. After the guitar is built, level the frets. First, string the guitar and tune to pitch. Make truss rod adjustments for action. The neck relief should be set and the nasty frets noted. Then, remove the strings and adjust the neck to the setting it had under load. About six pounds of weight placed on the shoulders with the headstock supported will get you about the same as the neck under load. This is the point where you mark and level the frets. Use a leveler that is radiused to the particular style of guitar being built.

When finished, polish the fingerboard with steel wool. A few drops of three-in-one oil on the board will make it look shiney. Restring and set to pitch. Make action adjustments and check your work. The attention paid to this adjustment is what makes the guitar's playability average, good or great.

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